2010-06-12 Pursuing a dream of blue turtles

Some in the owners group turned out to be a bit concerned about me launching the boat on my own. So I had a long on-line chat turned phone chat with Anders, to assure him that things were under control. I had run around the docks talking to skippers and marina crew, to get help and advice for the operation. The problem was that i had never sailed Disalagraptus before, and had no idea how she would behave. It's a heavy boat, and especially in the reverse gear, when steering control is zero, it would be tricky to manoeuver her.

So I mobilized a small army of skippers to come with their dinghies and act as tugs and buffers, and most importantly, to secure the stern line that we would pull the boat in place with.
In the evening before launch we threw a little fire-art performance and invited the helpers over, had some beers and talked the launch over. Then we took turns spitting fire and spinning the poi, with Gregory being an absolute amazement handling the burning pendulums like extensions of his body.

First manoeuvresThus the great moment arrived. First on the lift, she was shortly airborne, then the water embraced her. I ran quickly on board to check for leaks, then took her slowly out from the slip, encircled like a new aircraft carrier by all my support vessels and cheering from the crowd. We lost the pulling line in the first attempt, Rebecca and Gregory taken by surprise by the enormous pull of the heavy boat. But the Dutch skipper Jan was quick to bring it back with the dinghy. In the other end of the boat, Texas skipper James held us off a pylon at the bow.

Such a relief when it was done. As usual my anxieties were a bit larger than needed. The anxieties of the people at home were fully justified though, so i hope they are now at peace seeing the pictures of the boat neatly approaching the pier.

HelpersAfter having a thank you beer with our helpers, I went around inside the boat to check all the sea-cocks and make sure she was still watertight. Then we double checked all the lines and ropes, and prepared for our launch bonus to ourselves, the renting of a car and the exploration of Trinidad!

Nombuso came at the right moment and the decision was made on the spot. She dinghied me over to the car rental, and the others packed for adventure. The Dutch skipper Jan had told us to go to Grand Riviere where the leather-backs nest, and we drove off hoping to make it before dark. We stopped to fill up on flammable fluids and food for bonfire, having a picture of us camping on a beach and making a show for some of the big blue turtles.

Long was the drive, but we used the time to discuss tantra and the perspective of a spiritual sexuality. I was amazed how hungry the others were to know the subject and played my old role of yoga and tantra teacher with a hidden smile.

We stopped in Arima and Valencia on the way, and went to a small roadside grocer far up in the Matura region to get a flash-light which we had forgot to bring. All the places were full of people, really seeming to enjoy life and taking a lime while doing what ever. Always calm and peaceful and no signs of any dangers, contrary to what we where told by a guy in a name tag we asked for directions passing through Port of Spain. Maybe it was just the potholes he was afraid of, but we were on a quest for adventure and knew that the places you are warned against often are the most interesting.

Arriving at the turtle beach in the furthest corner of Trinidad island, great was our surprise to be met by a forest of signs, hotels and offices all around. Right in front of us where we stopped, a 'turtle guide' stood and signalled to turn the lights off. Turtles navigate by the light to find back to the ocean, it appeared. She was about to start a tour, and we were sent to the office to fill in forms and pay the fee, typically Trinidad. But what a surprise to get a close up encounter with the animals that were so many that without our guides red lamp we would bump into them and their hatchlings as they were crawling, digging, laying, covering and returning to the sea in their slug tempo.

Rebecca and turtle

The weather was perfect until the tour was almost over, and monsoon rain sent us running for cover. Wet and tired but happy with the close nature encounter, we checked in to a hotel room.

Already at 5 morning Nambuso and I went down to the beach again, hoping to see the turtles just as the last ones would leave the beach before light. We could take some pictures without flash and we helped dig out a few hatchlings that we carried down to the waters. We just saved them from the arriving vultures that would take all edible and defenceless. A little later the dogs came.

Further down the beach a big and blue dead turtle had washed up on the beach, and two guys were trying to drag it to a pirogue outside the breakers. I helped out by swimming the rope by my teeth, and followed its last journey as the boatmen pulled it to the ocean. "The fishermen like to kill them" the guy said. When a turtle is entangled in nets, they just finish it off, and it washes up. So I got to swim with the turtles as I had hoped, but next time I'll remember to ask specifically for live ones.

We spent the rest of the morning with meditation and fruit breakfast in our luxurious room. As we took off, we all wanted to get more of that Trinidad nature we had enjoyed the first day we met, so at the first sign to a waterfall, we drove up a jungle road, scraping the last bottom rust of our battered rental. A half hours walk through the hilly forest along streams and among mysterious animals that we could hear but rarely see, we reached to a waterfall that you would really have to experience yourself. (Also because we didn't bring the camera.) It was beautiful beyond my wildest measure for sure.

Nombuso and Mik spitfireWe arrived very late at the Cuevas beach. Trinidad roads are long and winding, and signs seem to be overly optimistic about distance. 50 meters is 200, and 35 km takes two hours. Everybody in the car seemed perfect just the same, and when I wasn't focused on the hairpins, I took part in the debate about sexuality and identity.

On the beach we all were ready to sleep, but Nombuso was a hero and cooked the vegetables on the fire. When she also started spinning fire, we woke up and I did a few spitfires. We discovered a big turtle in the light of our flames, but it was too late and she was already going like a moth towards light. So i walked her to the brink, only to try and keep her in the water, since she would constantly go for some fishermen's lights further down the beach. Finally she swam off, I went to sleep to the sound of waves, confident that drizzle wouldn't turn into monsoon.

Nombuso and the blue turtle

Morning walk on the long empty beach, a swim and a childish run; just couldn't hold it back in the middle of so much space and the wet sand under my feet. Everybody wanted to leave as i came back to camp, so we packed up and left even though i could have spent the whole day. We went back to our harbour via a short detour trying to locate another waterfall, but it was too far up through a creek.

Disalagraptus lies quietly in the dock, and we are good to go. Anders arrives the day after tomorrow, and our ambition to be ready is fulfilled, so we deeply enjoy our 'free' time, getting the sails in place and changing filters on the engine. The mechanic Lee is super, working for a six-pack and teaching me all about bleeding screws, o-rings and invisible pump levers. I want to know how everything works on the boat to be fully prepared any time something might flunk.

love
mik